Pacific North West

The Pacific NW has proven to be the new promised land (at least for me). All the amenities you could ask for in Seattle and easy access to some of the most diverse climbing terrain on the planet have really hit home for me.

Most of my work this summer has been on Mount Rainier, via the Emmons and Disappointment Cleaver routes, however I have also been able to get up to Mount Baker for a few courses. Beyond the glaciated terrain the rock climbing is phenomenal and geologically diverse (in fact mind boggling)

The only caveat of the summer has been the extremely low snow pack and increased objective risk of climbing. We are seeing late August conditions already, which has increased the use of ladders, the size of crevasses, and rock fall. It is definitely an interesting year to be guiding in the Cascades!

Perhaps the best part of the job is working with clients. They come from all over the world and bring tons of different experiences to the mountain. Often it is the conversations that make the trips so memorable. Pushing clients further than they thought they could go and getting them to their personal high point, be it the summit or otherwise has proven rewarding.

I recently also completed the new Alpine Skills Course through the AMGA. We spent a few days at Mount Erie and then on Baker honing some old skills and learning some new. The course left me feeling like I am on the right path and keeping up with the industry.

It feels like I have just started fitting in and yet the season is already half way done. Looking forward to a few more months here and then returning to Chiang Mai for some relaxed sport climbing!

early season trip up the DC

Ingraham Flats camp 11,200'

Salz looking epic on the approach to Mount Baker

clients after a 6 day trip on Baker

Baker from the Squak glacier side

descending with a client in amazing weather on Rainier

Emmons glacier from camp

crossing the crater at sunrise

sunrise summit with clients

Manifest Destiny

The last few months have been a whirl wind of activity and change.

March consisted of guiding another cycling trip across Cambodia. The trip was great and reaffirmed my love and connection with the people there. Many laughs and cultural lessons later I saw off my group in Phnom Penh. 

The short time spent back in Chiang Mai was delightful. Hanging out with good friends and feeling sad to be leaving in such a short time.

After a short time in ND to see the family and collect my gear I made a b-line for Washington for a guides try out with Alpine Ascents International. Prior to the tryout I was given the grand tour of rock climbing in Index and Leavenworth, both of which are outstanding granite climbing destinations. 

Arrival in Ashford, our staging ground for the tryouts on Mount Rainier, came quickly and led to some great conversations with other aspiring guides. There was a lot of self imposed weight on my shoulders, having moved back with the intention of getting a job and already securing a place to live for the summer in Seattle. Our three day tryout turned into a 7 day practical assessment on the mountain. 

Having never been to the Cascades or moved on snow in 3 years I was sweating icicles. The whole process itself went very smoothly and even got to summit on a clear day. The ten of us aspiring guides felt in good spirits. When we arrived back in Ashford only 5 of us were offered jobs. It was a bit of shock to us all. Having cultivated relationships that we thought would continue into the guiding season. In some ways it was a great growth experience for those who did not make it, putting ego and desires into the forefront, and having to adapt to unforeseen things.

In the mist of all of this there was a terrible earthquake that shocked Nepal. Everyone at the company has deep ties not only to the clients, but also all the local friends and communities. Much of the try out was overshadowed by this, however everyone gave support and solace where needed. 

Having weathered the storm the weight now is off. Tomorrow marks my first 3 day climb of Mount Rainier with clients. Nerves, excitement, fear, and pure joy are coursing through my emotional state. For once in a long while I feel at peace with myself and the world around me.

the crew of cyclists at Angkor Wat

where's waldo?

he bought this bike brand new 64 years ago

last sunset in Chiang Mai

arrival

Mount Rainier

awkward yoga

Camp Muir

ascending the Ingraham glacier

remote spire near Leavenworth

Years End

Life has a tendency to speed up around the holidays. The past few months have been full of activity, illnesses, laughter, sun burns, joyrides, and countless other pieces and parts. In the mayhem I was able to send out some job applications for the coming season, and it looks like we are Seattle bound! Funny how when you are about to leave a place everything becomes that much sweeter. The fact that I may not be back to Thailand for a while hasn't really sunk in, haha there's no time for it. Though it has given me pause to think about all the wonderful friendships and experiences have come from this place, and how fortunate I have been to spend my life here. But it ain't over yet, still have a few more months of good time to be had.


November was a bit hectic for us with both our company retreat and a good friends wedding all in the same week. All of which was based near Chiang Dao, a few hours to the north. We managed to get damn near everyone out for a few day hike up Doi Luang Chiang Dao, which also doubled as a photo shoot , haha. We got back cleaned up and headed over to our friends Jens and Pim's wedding. They opted for both a traditional Thai and western ceremony. It was a blast, and probably the first time in a long while I was able to pound gin and tonics at 9 am and still have it be socially acceptable. Even got a few climbs in the morning after , though I was moving sloooow.

western wedding styles

traditional wedding styles

looking classy

our old friend Pui was back from the states

Our staff were also all part of the annual Chiang Mai Marathon. Some people did the 10k, 21k, and a few brave souls started at 4 am for the full marathon. Post run included a great pig roast and craft brews, not too shabby.

the whole CMRCA family

Katie's friend Sam came over to visit us , so we promptly headed south to the islands. Our first stop was Koh Yao Noi. The island was exactly what was needed, not too overdeveloped and tons of great food. It also still felt like Thailand, which often is lost on the bigger islands that cater to increasing numbers of tourists. After a few nights we popped over to Koh Lanta until just after new years eve. Drastic difference in the number of tourists and atmosphere, but the beaches were perfect. We even did a day trip out to a small set of islands to do some kayakings, swimming, and probably the best snorkeling I have done in Thailand. All the reefs were well preserved and tons of fish and soft coral.

Koh Lanta

always travel via your stomach

pimpin' helmets for the sick whip

paradise?

not posed

long tail

Had to do a pitstop in Kuala Lumpur at some point to sort out some visa stuff, as well as working a program with the Jump! Foundation. Free time involved tons of delicious Indian food and a trip to Batu Caves. The program went swimmingly and before I could blink I was back in Chiang Mai.

Batu Caves

so wanted to buy one.....

The development at Crazy Horse has been slow and steady over the years, and it is evident in the quality of the climbing. New routes are being put up at Heart Wall, the premier climbing area at Crazy Horse, but it ain't cheap. If you would like to donate to the Bolt Heart Wall fund I would highly encourage it. Check out the video below for inspiration.

Bolt Heart Wall 2015 from Thailand Climbing on Vimeo.

Liming, China

After a successful program in Beijing I jumped an early flight and made my way to Liming. Situated in northern Yunnan province, near both Tibet and Burma, Liming has recently become famous as the "Indian Creek of Asia." Development has been rapid, thanks in part to Mike Dobie and a number of Chinese climbers. 

There isn't much in terms of, well anything in Liming, however the Faraway Hotel served as our home base. This place was built with love and creativity. Everything in the joint is some piece of art fashioned from natural materials. On top of that the owners have two dogs, Ding Dong and Jerry, both of which followed us to the crags everyday in search of attention. Recently the Chinese government has deemed Liming a tourist destination, which means tons of Chinese tourists riding around in golf carts for a few hours each day. Evidently when the government decides a place is on the sight seeing list it invests large sums of money into the local area. 

first meal in Liming

views weren't to shabby from the room

the generals noodles were the best in the land

Ding Dong

My initial impressions rolling into the valley were that of a giddy school boy, nervous excitement. Giant walls of red sandstone just towering over everything, and to cap it all off a giant 5000 meter peak in the distance. There were five of us total here to explore and we quickly set out to climb some of the five star lines. Though there are over 10 crags that have been developed to different extents the most popular by far was the Pillars Area, which is easily access via a staircase and short trail hike from the road. We spent a good portion of our time in this area climbing classics like Faraway Corner (5.11a/b) and Scarface 2 (5.10+). With such a easy approach and large concentration of climbs it was hard to leave........until the climbing festival brought with it giant groups of Korean and Chinese climbers. Though the area is compared to Indian Creek it is more like its slightly strange step brother. The climbs are shorter and many are not as clean or aesthetic as the creek, which gives it a personality all its own. 

Add on Faraway Corner 5.11a/b

Gee on an unnamed 5.11 at the Pillars Area

One of the most aesthetic and intimidating lines at the Pillars area was Clamdigger (5.11). Mario and Add saved it for the last day due to rumors of extreme exertion and skin loss...... Watching both of them climb it really gave insight into the depths of human suffering and determination. Fortunately only one of Mario's knees was completely raw after the climb......

Mario  Clamdigging (5.11)

after-math of Clamdigger

Add on The Great Owl 5.9

Locals used to construct wooden ladders to harvest the birds nests on the cliff side, a bit insane but hey if the soup is good it must be worth it. Even the oldest locals don't remember a time when this ladder was in use, which probably means it's bomber right?

We all had to learn quick and adapt to the sandstone cracks. After a few days of getting used to the stone it became easier to chase down projects and beautiful lines. We even explored the Cave Area just above town, which has some extremely classic lines like Soul's Awakening and Wind of the Valley. Just a heads up about the caterpillars in the area, they sting! All the little hairs on their back will get stuck into your skin and cause a reaction, Noah had to learn that the hard way.

like a 5.5 crack / ladder climb

itchy little buggers

Mario working DeDongs Crack

Add cruising up Wind of the Valley

The only other crag we hit up was The Guardian. It took a bit of route finding but the climbs here were pretty awesome. Super clean and tons of long hard climbs in the 5.11+ range. Unfortunately a Spanish climber was bitten by a dog on the approach, so watch out!

Ooan and Gee at the Guardian Crag

Angus and Noah on a dirty 5.8 pitch

early mornings with Jerry and Add

Turns out you can't climb everyday in Liming, primarily because you either have no skin left or explosive diarrhea (or both!). We ended up spending most of our rest days checking out the monthly market and hiking up to 1000 Turtle Mountain. Another great tip: check your beer caps, nearly one in four is a winner, which means if you keep winning you keep getting free beer.

homemade bai jo (aka paint thinner)

1000 Turtle Mountain

Our trip to Liming also coincided with the 3rd Annual Liming Climbing Festival. Tons of people rolled into town, mostly from China and Korea. Black Diamond also sponsored the event so they sent their Zhuhai production team, as well as Jonathan Thesenga and Brittany Griffith. Also in town was Mike Dobie, the local developer which some of us had met a few years ago. Mike was super humble about everything he has been doing for Chinese climbing and tried to stay out of the spot light when possible. The highlight of the night was the free bbq pork intestines (mmm food poisoning) and a "lucky draw,"aka the Chinese name for raffle. The funny thing about Chinese climbers is that they are all middle class, well off dudes. In fact almost everyone we saw was already wearing brand new gear. It makes sense as the Chinese middle class grows in wealth they are obviously going to get into things that formerly were inaccessible, and it is cool to see.

bunch of famous people

One morning we were saved by a British expat named Ruben with fresh coffee and cake at a makeshift street stall (unfortunately every time I talked to him afterward all I could think of was a big reuben sandwich, but I digress). He had been living in Kunming for a few years and had plans to open a hostel in Liming for climbers. Hopefully next time I end up there he will have everything up and running.

Jonathan Thesenga and Brittany Griffith chillin at Ruben's Cafe

last day out......we brought brews

caught a ride on Mike Dobie's sweet trike

The trip went swimmingly well. We all learned how to crack climb in a beautiful remote part of China. Beers were drank, food eaten, skin lost, and joy had. Can't wait for the next round!